Welcome to our blog, where we are dedicated to providing you with the best tips and advice for caring for your beloved guinea pig. One essential aspect of guinea pig care is choosing the right bedding. In this article, we will delve into the world of guinea pig bedding options, focusing on materials that are safe, comfortable, and promote a clean and healthy environment for your furry friend. Let’s dive in and discover the different bedding options available, as well as the factors to consider when making your selection.
Understanding the Importance of Bedding
Bedding plays a crucial role in creating a comfortable and hygienic living space for your guinea pig. It provides insulation, absorbs moisture, controls odour, and creates a cosy place for your pet to rest, burrow, and play. By choosing the right bedding, you can ensure your guinea pig’s well-being and minimize the risk of respiratory issues and skin irritations.
Safe and Comfortable Bedding Options
Paper-Based Bedding
Made from recycled paper products, paper-based bedding is a popular and safe choice for guinea pigs. It is highly absorbent, keeping the cage dry, and effectively controls odour. Look for bedding that is free from harmful additives and chemicals to ensure the safety of your pet.
Aspen Shavings
Derived from aspen trees, aspen shavings are considered safe and comfortable for guinea pigs. They are hypoallergenic, making them an excellent choice for pets with sensitivities. Aspen shavings provide good odour control and offer a soft surface for your guinea pig to walk and rest on.
Fleece Bedding
Fleece bedding is a soft and cosy option for guinea pigs. It typically consists of a layer of fleece fabric placed on top of an absorbent layer, such as towels or absorbent pads. Fleece is comfortable for your guinea pig and can be easily washed and reused.
Hay Bedding
Hay not only serves as a source of food for guinea pigs but can also be used as bedding. It provides a natural and cosy surface for your guinea pig to burrow and nest in. Ensure that the hay is fresh and clean to prevent any issues with mould or dust.
Factors to Consider
When choosing bedding for your guinea pig, consider the following factors:
Absorbency
Guinea pigs produce urine, and their bedding should have good absorbency to keep their cage dry and prevent skin irritations. Look for bedding materials that can effectively absorb moisture and control odours.
Dust Levels
Guinea pigs are prone to respiratory issues, so it is important to choose bedding with minimal dust. Avoid bedding materials that produce fine particles or dust that can irritate your guinea pig’s respiratory system.
Allergies or Sensitivities
Take into account any allergies or sensitivities your guinea pig may have. Some guinea pigs may be more prone to skin irritations or allergies to certain bedding materials. Monitor your guinea pig’s reactions and adjust the bedding if necessary.
Availability and Cost
Consider the availability and cost of the bedding material. Some bedding options may be more readily available and affordable in your area compared to others. Choose a bedding that fits within your budget while meeting the needs of your guinea pig.
By providing your guinea pig with the right bedding, you can create a comfortable and hygienic environment that promotes their well-being. Consider the various options available and the factors mentioned above when making your selection. Remember, your guinea pig’s safety and comfort should always be a priority. We hope this guide has helped you in choosing the perfect bedding for your furry friend. Stay tuned for more guinea pig care tips and advice, and don’t hesitate to share your experiences and questions with us. Happy guinea pig bedding shopping!
Are you thinking of expanding your hamster family? Adding more hamsters to your home can be an exciting adventure, but it requires careful planning and consideration. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of introducing and housing multiple hamsters, ensuring a smooth and harmonious transition. From understanding hamster social behaviour to creating a suitable living environment, we’ll cover everything you need to know to set up a safe and enriching home for your furry friends.
Understanding Hamster Social Behaviour
Hamsters are naturally solitary animals, but some species, like Dwarf hamsters, can tolerate living in pairs or small groups. We’ll discuss the different hamster species and their social behaviours, helping you determine whether introducing multiple hamsters is suitable for your particular furry companions.
Syrian Hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus)
Syrian hamsters are strictly solitary animals and should always be housed alone. They have a strong territorial nature and will become aggressive towards other hamsters, often leading to fights and serious injuries. It is important to provide Syrian hamsters with ample space, enrichment, and social interaction with their human caretakers to meet their needs for stimulation and companionship.
Dwarf Hamsters (Phodopus spp.)
Dwarf hamsters, including Campbell’s, Winter White, and Roborovski hamsters, have a more flexible social structure compared to Syrian hamsters. While they are generally more tolerant of living in pairs or small groups, not all individuals will get along. Some Dwarf hamsters may still exhibit aggressive behaviours towards their cage mates. It is crucial to closely monitor their interactions and be prepared to separate them if signs of aggression or stress occur.
Chinese Hamsters (Cricetulus griseus)
Chinese hamsters, similar to Syrian hamsters, are solitary animals and should be housed individually. They have a higher tendency towards territorial aggression and are less likely to tolerate living with other hamsters.
Choosing Compatible Hamsters
Selecting compatible hamsters is crucial for a successful introduction and harmonious cohabitation. In this section, we will explore factors such as age, gender, and temperament, which play a significant role in determining compatibility. We will also provide guidance on identifying signs of aggression or stress that may indicate incompatibility between hamsters.
Age
When introducing hamsters, it is generally easier to introduce them at a young age. Young hamsters are more adaptable and tend to be more accepting of new companions. It is recommended to introduce hamsters when they are still pups or juveniles to increase the chances of a successful pairing.
Gender
Pairing hamsters of the same gender is typically recommended to avoid unwanted breeding. However, it is crucial to note that not all hamsters of the same gender will get along. Male hamsters, especially Syrian and Chinese hamsters, are more likely to display territorial and aggressive behaviours, making it more challenging to house them together. Female hamsters, particularly Dwarf hamsters, generally have a higher chance of compatibility. However, individual personalities and temperaments also play a significant role.
Temperament
Hamsters have individual personalities, and their compatibility can depend on their temperament. Some hamsters are more sociable and tolerant, while others are more territorial and prone to aggression. When selecting hamsters for potential companionship, observe their behaviours and choose individuals that exhibit calm and non-aggressive tendencies.
Gradual Introduction and Neutral Territory
Introducing hamsters gradually and in a neutral territory is crucial for a smooth integration and successful cohabitation. In this section, we will guide you through a step-by-step process that includes split-cage setups and scent swapping. Closely monitoring their behaviour and intervening if necessary is also essential for a successful introduction.
Split-Cage Setup
A split-cage setup can be used as a temporary arrangement during the introduction process. This involves dividing a larger cage or habitat with a mesh or clear divider, allowing the hamsters to see and smell each other without direct physical contact. This setup provides a controlled environment where the hamsters can gradually get used to each other’s presence while still maintaining their separate territories. Over time, you can gradually increase the time the hamsters spend together in the split-cage setup.
Neutral Territory
Choose a neutral territory for the initial introduction. This can be a playpen, a clean bathtub, or a neutral area free of any hamster scents. Place some neutral bedding or toys in the area to provide enrichment and stimulation. Avoid introducing them directly into one hamster’s established territory, as this may trigger territorial behaviour.
Scent Swapping
To help the hamsters become familiar with each other’s scent, you can engage in scent swapping. This involves exchanging bedding or toys between the enclosures, allowing the hamsters to investigate and become accustomed to each other’s scent. This gradual introduction of scent can help reduce territorial instincts and facilitate acceptance.
Suitable Housing for Multiple Hamsters
Creating a suitable living environment is vital when housing multiple hamsters. In this section, we will discuss various housing options and important elements to consider, such as spacious cages or modular habitats, bedding, nesting areas, hiding spots, and maintaining hygiene and cleanliness.
Spacious Cages or Modular Habitats
When housing multiple hamsters, it is crucial to provide them with ample space to establish their own territories and minimize potential conflicts. Opt for a cage or modular habitat that is large enough to accommodate each hamster comfortably. Consider the size requirements of the specific hamster species you are housing, as different species have different space needs. The cage should allow for adequate ventilation, have secure doors or openings to prevent escapes, and be easy to clean.
Bedding
Choose a suitable bedding material that promotes comfort, absorbs moisture, and allows for burrowing. Common bedding options include aspen shavings, paper-based bedding, or paper pellets. Avoid cedar or pine bedding, as they can release aromatic oils that may be harmful to hamsters. Provide a thick layer of bedding to allow the hamsters to dig and create tunnels, which is a natural behavior for them.
Nesting Areas and Hiding Spots
Each hamster should have their own designated nesting area and hiding spots within the enclosure. This provides them with a sense of security and privacy. Use materials such as nesting paper, shredded tissue, or hay to create cozy nests for each hamster. Place hiding spots like tunnels, wooden houses, or small igloos throughout the enclosure to give them additional places to retreat and feel safe.
Hygiene and Cleanliness
Maintaining proper hygiene and cleanliness in the hamsters’ enclosure is essential for their health and well-being. Spot clean the cage regularly by removing any soiled bedding, uneaten food, or waste. Perform a deep clean of the cage on a weekly or bi-weekly basis, depending on the size of the enclosure and the number of hamsters. During the deep cleaning, replace all bedding, wash the cage accessories with mild soap and water, and thoroughly rinse them before reassembling the enclosure.
Enrichment and Individual Needs
Hamsters have individual needs for mental and physical stimulation, and providing proper enrichment is crucial to keeping them engaged and entertained. In this section, we will explore various enrichment activities and toys that can meet these needs and help reduce the likelihood of conflicts among your hamsters. We will also discuss the importance of providing separate resources for each hamster, such as food and water stations, to promote a stress-free environment.
Enrichment Activities and Toys
Offering a variety of enrichment activities and toys can keep your hamsters mentally stimulated and physically active. Consider providing chew toys made of safe materials, such as wooden blocks or safe chew sticks, to satisfy their natural gnawing instincts and help keep their teeth healthy. Interactive puzzle toys, treat balls, or foraging toys that allow them to search for hidden treats can provide mental stimulation and prevent boredom. Rotating these toys regularly can keep the hamsters engaged and prevent them from losing interest.
Separate Resources
To avoid competition and potential conflicts, it is essential to provide separate food and water stations for each hamster. This ensures that each hamster has access to their own resources without feeling threatened or stressed by others. Place multiple food and water dishes in different areas of the enclosure to accommodate all hamsters and prevent them from fighting over essential resources.
Individual Exercise Wheels and Tunnels
Each hamster should have their own exercise wheel and tunnel within the enclosure. Exercise wheels provide an outlet for their energy and help keep them physically active. Ensure the wheel is an appropriate size for the specific hamster species, as some species may require larger wheels to prevent back problems. Similarly, providing multiple tunnels or tubes allows each hamster to have their own personal space for hiding, exploring, and playing.
Introducing multiple hamsters requires patience, observation, and careful consideration. By understanding hamster social behaviour, choosing compatible hamsters, gradually introducing them in a neutral territory, and providing suitable housing and enrichment, you can create a safe and enriching environment for your furry companions. Remember to monitor their interactions closely and provide individual care and attention. With time and dedication, you’ll witness the joy of seeing your hamsters thrive and build strong relationships with one another. Happy hamster-keeping!
Guinea pigs make lots of different noises and they can mean different things. They communicate by using sounds and posture just like capybaras. You may not understand all these noises, but their body language can help you interpret them.
Different Guinea Pig Sounds
Guinea pigs make a variety of sounds. Some sounds are to express their contentment while some are to show aggression. As a piggy parent, it is important for us to identify their sounds and understand what they are trying to tell us.
Wheeking
A distinctive and common vocalisation made by piggies. Wheeking sounds like a long and loud whistle. It is often used to communicate excitement or anticipation. For instance, when you open the fridge or get out the food container. Guinea pigs frequently wheek when they are being made when they are about to be fed. Additionally, wheeking can serve as a call for attention.
Purring
When a guinea pig purr, they can mean different things. Look at their body language and pitch of the sound. If they let out a deep purring sound along with a relaxed and calm posture, they feel contented and comfortable. However, if the purr is high pitched, it means that they are expressing annoyance. When making this sound they may appear tense and even vibrate. In addition, a short purr can indicate fear or uncertainty. It is usually accompanied by them remaining motionless.
Whining
When guinea pigs make a whining or moaning type of squeak, it means that they dislike something you or another piggy is doing.
Rumbling
Rumbling, also known as “motorboating” or “rumble strutting”. A rumble is deeper than a purring sound. You can hear it when a male romances a female. This is frequently accompanied by a sort of “mating dance”.
Teeth Chattering
Teeth chattering is an aggressive vocalisation which is a sign of an angry piggy. In many instances, it is accompanied by the guinea pig showing their teeth which means “back off” or “stay away”.
Hissing
Similar to teeth chattering, hissing is a sign of agitation. It sounds like the hissing noise that a cat makes.
Chirping
This sounds like a bird chirping! It is the least heard noise by a guinea pig, so it is the least understood. They may appear in a trance-like state. Although it is unclear why guinea pigs make this sound, it is thought that it indicates fear.
Are you still unsure about the sounds made by guinea pigs? Check out this video by Little Adventures to learn more!
Guinea pigs can communicate via their body language. Thus, it is good to understand what are the normal movements made by them so that you can identify changes in them.
Popcorning:
Reddit
The reason why it is called popcorn is because it looks similar to popcorn when it is popping. Popcorning consists of hopping straight up in the air, sometimes repeatedly. It is frequently seen in young guinea pigs who are especially happy, excited or feeling playful. Older piggies do popcorn as well, but they don’t jump as high as younger piggies.
Freezing:
Burgess Pet Care
Guinea pigs usually exhibit this body posture when they are startled or uncertain. They will stand motionless as there is something in its environment that scares them.
Touching Noses:
Guinea Pig 101
It is a friendly greeting between guinea pigs.
Licking:
YouTube Devjit Paul
Licking can be a sign of affection. Although, it is possible that they like the taste of the salt on your skin.
Fidgeting while being held:
It can often mean that they need to use the bathroom or that they are tired of being held. Try to return your guinea pig to their cage for a bit.
Aggressive Actions:
Here are some aggressive actions that your piggy can display:
Raising their heads
Rising up on their hind ends with stiff legs
Shuffling side to side on stiff legs
Fluffing out their fur
Showing their teeth
These actions are usually accompanied by hissing or teeth chattering. If your guinea pigs do this with each other, they could be starting a fight.
Strutting:
Strutting around another piggy while rumbling is a typical mating dance.
Tossing Head in the Air:
When a guinea pig is annoyed with being petted, they will toss their head back. It is a way of them asking you to stop.
Mounting:
Mounting can be a sexual behaviour from males to females or a behaviour to show dominance, especially between females.
Sniffing:
Sniffing is a guinea pig’s way to check out what is going on around them and to get to know others. They usually like to sniff each other around the nose, chin and ears.
Scent Marking:
Piggies will rub their chins, cheeks and hind ends on items they want to mark as theirs. Additionally, they might urinate on things or other piggies to show their dominance.
Running Away From Being Picked Up:
Guinea pigs tend to be timid and running away from you is a natural defence mechanism. Given time and patience, almost all guinea pigs will come to accept being picked up. They will also come to enjoy cuddles and playtime outside of the cage.
Grooming your guinea pig is important as it keeps them clean and healthy. Different types of guinea pigs have different grooming needs. Therefore, it is essential to learn how to groom your guinea pigs to ensure that they are always clean!
Hair
#1 Short-haired: they do not need much brushing. You can brush them once a week to remove some loose hairs.
#2 Long-haired: they need daily brushing and occasional trim.
Nails
All guinea pigs should have their nails trimmed twice a month. Remember to remove just the sharp tips.
#2 Buy some styptic powder. It will come in handy if you accidentally cut the quick which causes bleeding. Styptic powder will prevent them from bleeding continuously.
#3 If you have never trimmed any pet’s nails before, you need to learn where their quick is to avoid cutting it. The quick is the pink part of the nail that contains the blood supply. It is easy to cut clear nails as it is easy to identify their quick. However, if your piggy has dark nails, you have to be careful. Try to cut tiny amounts off the ends to prevent cutting their quick.
#4 Have your piggy sit on your lap on something soft such as a towel. Your piggy should be sitting on your lap with its back towards you.
#5 “Burrito” method can be helpful. Have your piggy wrapped snugly in a towel with its feet sticking out.
#6 If your piggy fidgets a lot, providing them with something to chew on can be helpful. You can give them some apple slices to chew on while you trim their nails.
#7 Hold one foot and gently trim each nail. Remember to start with a tiny amount if you are new at this!
#8 If you are really unsure, you can ask your veterinarian to demonstrate to you. Your veterinarian will be happy to show you how to do it!
Bath
All guinea pigs occasionally need to have their backs bathed. Long-haired guinea pigs will need bathing more often.
Your piggy does not need regular baths. However, it would be good to bathe them a few times a year or when they are particularly dirty. It would be great to start bathing them when they are young. Additionally, you can provide them with veggie or fruit as a treat so that they would not be as stressed.
#1 You need guinea pig safe shampoo.
#2 You can either bathe your piggy in your sink or use a large bucket or tub. If the sink or tub has a slippery surface, you can place a cloth at the bottom so that they don’t slip and get scared. This method is quieter and can be less stressful for your pig.
#3 Put warm water in another bucket, slowly pour a small amount of water on your piggy. Remember to stay away from their face.
#4 Remember to avoid their faces when you are bathing them. Use your hands to move the water around their body to make it wet.
#5 Put a tiny amount of shampoo in your hands. Slowly work it into your piggy’s fur.
#6 Rinse your piggy gently until the water is clear. Make sure all the shampoo is rinsed out before moving on.
#7 Take a towel and carefully dry as much excess water as you can. For longer haired piggies, you should have a comb with you to comb their hair to prevent tangling.
#8 Placing your piggy on a secure surface, use a blow dryer to dry them. Use the lowest setting available. Use your fingers to help dry their fur quicker. To prevent tangling, use a comb to brush through their fur.
#9 Make sure your guinea pig is 100% dry before placing them back into their cage.
To ensure your piggie lives a healthy and long life, it is important to provide them with the ideal diet. Guinea pigs have specific nutritional needs and they could develop significant health problems if these needs are not met.
Diet
#1 Vitamin C
Guinea pigs are unable to synthesise vitamin C. Therefore, it is important for them to get it from the food they eat. Pet supply stores such as ours sell vitamin C supplements for your piggies.
#2 Pellets
Guinea pig pellets are formulated with vitamin C. Some other small animals such as rabbit pellets look similar but they do not contain vitamin C. Thus, it is important to feed your piggies the correct pellets.
Pellets generally contain more protein and calcium. The average adult guinea pigs do not need it as much as young guinea pigs. Hay is the perfect source of fibre and nutrients which should make up the most of your piggy’s diet. Chewing the long strands of hay will help keep your guinea pig’s teeth from overgrowing. Thus, there should be an ample amount of hay in your piggy’s cage.
#4 Veggies and Fruits
Fresh veggies and fruits contain ample amounts of vitamin C which is good for your guinea pigs. Here are some great vegetable and fruit options for your piggies:
A. Dark leafy greens such as spinach and kale.
B. Bell peppers
C. Carrots
D. Strawberries
E. Oranges (Not too much as it it acidic)
F. Apples
Remember to feed FRESH fruits and veggies instead of cooked ones so that the vitamin C is preserved. Additionally, make sure to wash the veggies and fruits thoroughly. Divide the food into several smaller servings and feed them a little throughout the day.
What foods should guinea pigs avoid?
Here is a list of items that can cause guinea pigs to have digestive issues or even be toxic to them. Do not feed your piggy these food:
Potatoes, including sprouts, peels, and parts of a potato plant
Beans, including bean plants
Dill
Flowers or any part of a flower including stems and leaves
Rhubarb including the plant
Tomato plants (although you can feed your pig tomatoes)
Iceberg lettuce
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Avocado
Onions
Chives
Leeks
Shallots
Garlic
Thawed frozen foods
Weeds you find in the wild and in your garden
Common houseplants
Seeds, pits and cores of any type of fruit
Meat and dairy products
Mental and Physical Care
Guinea pigs are social animals. They need to socialise daily to ensure they stay healthy and happy. Thus, it is important to take note that you need to keep guinea pigs in groups.
Socialising
You might want to consider keeping two guinea pigs together to prevent loneliness. Make sure they are the same gender if you do not want a population problem.
If you only have one guinea pig, it is best to spend time with your piggy. Spend at least 15 minutes at several points throughout the day with it.
Exercise
Adequate space for your piggy to run around should be provided. Additionally, you can get them an exercise/chew ball to let them work off some extra energy.
Veterinary Care
If you provide your piggy with the proper diet and cage conditions, they should have minimal health problems. Additionally, they do not need any vaccinations. However, if you notice these symptoms you should consult a veterinarian:
Overgrown teeth that don’t align neatly together
Open sores, poor coat or other skin problems may be a sign of scurvy
Unusual lumps or growths can be a sign of cancer
Sores on their feet which is a sign of a common condition known as bumblefoot
Trouble breathing which can indicate a respiratory infection
Diarrhoea is common and can be due to parasites or bacterial infections
Before bringing your new guinea pig home, you need to make sure you have set up a suitable habitat for them. Having a suitable habitat for your guinea pigs will ensure that they stay healthy and happy. Are you unsure of what enclosure is suitable for your piggy? This is the blog post for you!
Basic Guinea Pig Facts
Life Span: 5 to 9 years
Size: up to 25cm
Diet: Hay, veggies and pellets
House Size (Minimum): 7.5 square feet
Cage SizeÂ
Cage size is the most important thing to take note of as a new piggy parent. Most piggy parents would get these cages for their piggy.Â
However, it is not big enough. Guinea pigs need a lot of space to move around as they are active animals. Therefore, the bigger the cage, the better. Here are some suitable cages for guinea pigs:Â
Care of their Cage
Daily: Remove droppings, soiled bedding and stale food from their cage.
Weekly: Replace all bedding and rinse out the bottom of the tub with warm water. Dry it out then put new bedding in.
Temperature Needs
Guinea pigs cannot tolerate extreme temperatures well. Hence, it is important to put their cage in an area with proper temperature care. They do the best in temperatures ranging from 20 degree celsius to 22 degree celsius. Since Singapore is warm all the time, you can place them in an area with a fan or air conditioner.
FlooringÂ
To keep your guinea pig’s feet healthy, make sure to use a plastic tub or fleece blanket instead of wire lining.
Here are some beddings that you can consider for your guinea pig’s cage:
Shredded or recycled newspaper bedding
Carefresh Shavings
Hay
Hemp
Ground corn cob
Cotton towels or cloths
Fleece liners
Cage Accessories
Here are some basic items that your piggies need in their cage!Â
There are other ways to provide your piggies a comfortable hut. Instead of purchasing an already built cage, you can make one yourself.
One fun and inexpensive way to make a living space for your piggies is using Cubes and Coroplast (C&C). These C&C panels can be arranged in any pattern and can be easily connected with zip ties.Â
Another way would be to use your old dresser and some drain pipes. Using this method, you can create a multi-level home for your pig.
As long as the materials are safe for your piggies, and the living space is secured. You can be creative and use different items to make a cage for them!